Replacing an electrical panel costs $800 to $1,500 for a 100-amp panel and $1,300 to $3,000 for a 200-amp panel or a 100-to-200-amp upgrade, according to 2026 cost guides from This Old House and HomeAdvisor. Permits add $50 to $300. Moving the panel, a new meter base, or a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel can push the cost to $4,000.
How much a new panel costs by amperage
A standard panel replacement costs $800 to $1,500 at 100 amps and $1,300 to $3,000 at 200 amps, installed, according to This Old House (updated March 2026) and HomeAdvisor (updated June 2026). By size:
- 100-amp panel: $800 to $1,500 in both guides.
- 200-amp panel: $1,300 to $2,000 from HomeAdvisor, and $1,300 to $3,000 from This Old House.
- 100-amp to 200-amp upgrade: $750 to $2,000 from HomeAdvisor, before wiring for any new circuits, and $1,300 to $3,000 from This Old House.
- 400-amp service: $2,000 to $4,000 in both guides.
- Subpanel: $400 to $1,750 from both This Old House and Angi.
This Old House and HomeAdvisor both price the panel itself at $100 to $500, so labor makes up most of the bill.
A service upgrade costs more than a panel swap
A service upgrade costs more because it replaces more than the box. A like-for-like swap keeps your amperage. An upgrade raises it, so the electrician often also replaces the service entrance cable, the meter base and sometimes the mast, and coordinates with your utility.
You usually need the upgrade when you add a big load, such as an EV charger, a heat pump, a hot tub or an addition. This Old House notes that a licensed electrician runs a load calculation to size the panel. Don't pay for 400 amps unless that calculation calls for it.
When a subpanel is enough
A subpanel is enough when your main panel has spare capacity but no free breaker slots. It adds circuits for one area, such as a garage, a finished basement or an addition, for $400 to $1,750, according to This Old House and Angi. A subpanel adds no amperage, though. If the load calculation says your service is too small, a subpanel won't fix it.
Permit, inspection and utility costs
Nearly every panel replacement needs a permit, which typically costs $50 to $300, according to both This Old House and Angi. Your electrician pulls it, and it triggers an inspection of the finished work.
Your utility cuts power at the meter before the swap and restores it afterward. Only the utility pulls or resets the meter, and in many areas it won't reconnect until the inspection passes. Some utilities handle a scheduled disconnect and reconnect at no charge and others bill a fee, so ask when you book.
What pushes the price up
Moving the panel, replacing the meter base, fixing grounding and replacing a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel are the usual reasons a bill lands at the top of the range.
- Moving the panel: $1,500 to $4,000 from HomeAdvisor, and $800 to $3,000 from This Old House.
- Meter base: HomeAdvisor lists $100 to $650 for a new power supply and meter. This Old House puts a full meter box replacement at $1,800 to $3,500 installed, and notes it may need coordination with your utility.
- Grounding and bonding: Older homes may lack the ground rods or bonding that current code requires, and the inspector checks for them.
- Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels: HomeAdvisor prices their replacement at $1,500 to $4,000, often with some wiring updates, and notes their design flaws can cause a house fire. This Old House lists both brands as a reason to upgrade. Replace one even if it seems to work.
- Old wiring and wall repair: Rewiring circuits and patching drywall or siding add labor.
You may not need a new panel
Many homeowners who think they need a new panel actually have a damaged service cable, one overloaded circuit or one failed outlet. Those jobs cost less than a panel.
A cracked service entrance cable
The service entrance cable runs from the weatherhead down the outside wall, through the meter, and into your panel. Homeowners describe wires into the house where "the casing is cracked," or a hole where the cable enters the siding. The panel itself can be fine. A licensed electrician replaces a cracked cable end to end under a permit. If your utility has already pulled the meter, it resets the meter only after an inspector passes the repair, so book the electrician the same day.
Runhome contractor estimates for replacing the service entrance cable, with meter socket and mast fittings, ran from $585 to $1,230 as of September 2026, and for sealing the wall penetration and remounting the meter board with the cable sound, from $285 to $630. Both include the trip and assessment, and permit and inspection fees come on top. The cracked service entrance cable guide shows what to photograph before you call.
A dead outlet or a breaker that trips
A single dead outlet, or a breaker that trips when an appliance runs, points at one circuit, not the panel. Homeowners write that "only this one outlet is dead, everything else works," or that breakers trip whenever they use certain appliances. An overloaded circuit needs its load spread out or a dedicated circuit. A dead outlet with every breaker fully on usually means the receptacle or its wiring has failed. In a garage, the replacement must be a GFCI outlet, and a shorted garage outlet can leave the door opener without power and the door stuck open.
Runhome contractor estimates for diagnosing and replacing the outlet, GFCI upgrade included, ran from $245 to $520 as of September 2026, and for a new circuit run to that outlet, wiring and box included, from $313 to $850. The dead outlet and tripping breaker guide helps you tell the two apart.
When to stop and call a licensed electrician
Call a licensed electrician right away if you smell burning, see scorch marks, feel heat from the panel cover, or find that your utility has pulled the meter. If you see smoke or flames, leave the house and call 911.
Never remove the panel cover, the metal plate behind the door that hides the wiring, and never touch the service entrance cable, the mast or the meter socket. That wiring stays live from the utility side even with your main breaker off, so a mistake there is fatal. Resetting a tripped breaker is the limit of what you do yourself, and only when the panel is cool and smells normal. If a breaker trips again right after a reset, or you heard a pop or saw a spark, leave it off and hire an electrician.
What to send for an accurate contractor quote
Photos and a list of your plans let an electrician price the job without guessing. Send:
- A wide photo of the meter and the cable running down the wall, with the siding in frame, taken from the ground.
- A photo of the breaker labels and the main breaker rating, with the panel door open and the cover left on.
- Close-ups of any cracks, rust or taped sections on the outside cable.
- Your utility's name, and the date it pulled the meter if it did.
- Planned loads, such as an EV charger, a heat pump, a hot tub or an addition.
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace an electrical panel?
Yes, in nearly every jurisdiction. Your electrician pulls the permit, which triggers an inspection. In many areas the utility won't reconnect until that inspection passes, so a cash job with no permit can leave you without power.
The power company took my meter. Do I need a new panel?
Not always. When a utility pulls a meter for safety, the cause is often damage on the supply side, such as a cracked service entrance cable or a scorched meter socket, and the panel may be fine. A licensed electrician repairs it under permit, and the utility resets the meter after the inspection passes.
Does a breaker that keeps tripping mean I need a new panel?
Usually not. A breaker that trips when you run certain appliances means that circuit carries more load than it's rated for, so spread the appliances out or add a dedicated circuit. If breakers trip all over the house and you have to limit which appliances run at once, ask the electrician for a load calculation.
How long will the power be off?
For a planned replacement, expect most of a day, since HomeAdvisor puts a basic job at 4 to 8 hours. If the utility has already pulled your meter, add the wait for the inspection and the reconnect, so book the electrician the day you lose the meter.
