Short answer
Water that keeps coming up out of the ground, or sprays under the floor, when nobody is running water is a leak on a pressurized supply line. That line stays under pressure day and night, so it does not stop on its own and it does not heal. Shut the water off at the street meter and watch the meter dial. If the dial still creeps with every fixture off, the leak is on your side of the meter and a plumber locates it and replaces that section of pipe.
Tell a supply leak from surface water in 10 minutes
- Turn off every fixture and appliance in the house, including the ice maker and the irrigation timer.
- Find the meter box at the curb and lift the lid. Watch the small sweep dial or the leak triangle for 2 minutes.
- Read the dial again. Movement with everything off means water is escaping between the meter and the house.
- Close the main shutoff at the meter, then walk back to the wet spot.
- Watch the wet spot for 15 minutes. Flowing water that slows and stops after the shutoff is a leak on your supply line.
- Press a hand on the ground beside the wet spot. Warm water with a cold-side leak points at a hot line under the floor instead.
- Check the low point of the yard last. Water runs downhill underground, so the wet spot sits below the break, not on top of it.
If the wet spot dries out and the meter dial stops, you have found it, and the repair is a section of pipe. If water keeps rising with the meter valve closed, the water is groundwater, rain runoff or a city-side main leak, and the city handles that.
Repair or replace
| Situation | What to do |
|---|---|
| Water bubbles up between the meter and the house, dial moves with everything off | Repair. A plumber digs the one spot, cuts out the split, and couples in new pipe. |
| Water sprays under a house on blocks or piers with no crawlspace access | Repair. The pipe gets reached from the open side or through a small access opening, not through the floor. |
| Wet spot keeps filling after the meter valve is closed | Call the water utility. A leak on the street side of the meter is their pipe and their cost. |
| Leak found at a hose bib, washer valve or exposed fitting | Repair. A failed valve or fitting is a part swap, not a pipe replacement. |
| Third leak in the same old galvanized or poly line | Replace the run. Pipe that splits repeatedly keeps splitting, and a new service line costs less than three more digs. |
| City has already shut your water off at the meter | Repair now and leave it off. A pressurized leak under a house undermines the soil the piers sit on. |
What it costs
Runhome contractor estimates ran from $320 to $900 to locate and repair a leaking underground service line in the yard, and from $365 to $830 to locate and repair a supply leak under the floor, as of October 2026, including the trip and the leak search.
| Option | Range |
|---|---|
| Locate and repair a leaking underground service line in the yard | $320 to $900 |
| Locate and repair a supply leak under the floor of a house on piers | $365 to $830 |
Can I do it myself?
Closing the meter valve and reading the dial is yours, and doing both before the plumber arrives cuts an hour off the search. Repairing the pipe is not a homeowner job in most cases. The line is under 50 to 80 psi, it sits in soil that collapses, and a glued or crimped joint that fails underground floods the same spot again a week later.
Hire for this when the pipe runs under a slab, a driveway or a walkway, when the house sits on blocks and the space under the floor is too low to enter, or when the leak is near a buried electrical or gas line. Never dig blind: call 811 first and let them mark the utilities, because a shovel through a gas or power line is far worse than the leak.
What a contractor will ask you
Have these ready and you skip the back-and-forth.
- When you first noticed water flowing or pooling, and whether it has been days or months.
- Whether the water is clear like tap water, soapy, or dirty and rusty.
- Whether it runs constantly or only while an appliance like the washer runs.
- Whether the water is still actively bubbling or spraying right now.
- Where the main shutoff is, and whether you can reach it. "Shutoff is only by the street/meter outside" is a useful answer.
- Whether the wet spot sits closer to the foundation or closer to the street, sidewalk and meter box.
- Whether the house is on a concrete slab, a crawlspace, or up on blocks and piers with a shallow space under it.
- Whether the yard slopes, and whether the wet spot is the low point of that slope.
- Whether any floor or wall nearby feels soft, sagging or damp.
- A wide photo of the wet area showing the house, driveway, sidewalk or street for context.
Common questions
- Why is water bubbling up in my yard when I have not used any extra water?
A pressurized supply line is leaking underground. Normal household use has nothing to do with it, because that pipe holds pressure even when every tap is closed. Water finds the easiest path up and surfaces at the lowest or softest spot.
- Is the leak where the water comes up?
Usually not. Water travels along the pipe trench and down the slope before it surfaces, so the wet spot sits downhill of the break. That is why a plumber locates the line with equipment instead of digging at the puddle.
- Who pays, me or the water company?
The utility owns the pipe up to the meter and you own it from the meter to the house. Water that keeps rising with your meter valve closed is their side. Many utilities also forgive part of a high bill caused by a hidden leak, so ask when you report it.
- The city already cut my water off at the meter, can it wait?
No. A constant leak washes soil out from under the footings and piers, and a house on blocks depends on that soil. Leaving the water off is the right move, but get the repair scheduled rather than living on a closed valve.
- My house is on blocks and there is no crawlspace, will they cut my floor open?
Rarely. A plumber works from the open perimeter or makes a small access opening at the skirting first, because reaching the line from outside is cheaper than cutting flooring. Ask who patches any opening before the work starts.
